It had been three years since I last saw the rugged cliffs and sandy beaches of Colonsay. So when my good friend Rads invited me back to this island I instantly agreed, having learnt the joys of slow island life during my previous visit. 

This time we were to be joined by Rads brother JJ whom I have known since childhood and pretty much consider as my little brother. He had promised to see his sister the previous year and even made it all the way to the Ferry terminal in Oban. But once there, he got distracted by a World Cup football match and missed his boat. Unfortunately the next one wasn’t for another 4 day which was too long a wait so JJ headed back home and poor Rads was left to mourn his visit.

There was to be no mistake this time around and JJ and I boarded our Ferry with plenty of time to spare. Once again the weather was grey and cold, the sea a bit choppy with the Scottish flag at the bow of the ferry flapping wildly in the wind. We spent the two hour journey indoors keeping warm and playing cards. 

In no time we pulled up to Colonsay’s long cement jetty and an elderly gentleman with a red safety cap and jacket tied our lines securely. Rads was waiting for us and greeted us warmly, congratulating JJ on finally making it to the island. We took in the views of Scalasaig and drove away in Rad’s battered jeep to our accommodation, a little Croft cottage shared with some delightful guests: two sheep that lived in the garden but loved sneaking indoors. 

That first evening was spent catching up on each others' lives. We gave Rads the fresh fruit and other treats we had brought her from the mainland, simple things that made such a difference here. Feeling warm and content after a good dinner we went to bed early, eager for the adventures the next day would bring. 

Our first hike was to a place called Pig’s Paradise. We left the house the next morning with raincoats and binoculars and were soon greeted by meadows of purple and pink wild flowers. Further ahead we squelched our way through muddy peat lands, saying hello to the wild goats, and headed towards some rocky hills beyond which we could see our first views of the sea. The terrain felt wild, an impression that was enhanced by the strong wind blowing in our faces and the grey skies. But if you looked closely there were beautiful pink orchids peeping out of the long wet grass. Small droplets of rain fell on us and quickly passed. We finally reached some cliffs overlooking the sea, steep rock formations with intriguing shapes covered in grass and heather, and relentlessly pounded by the waves below. A majestic sight to behold! 

JJ being a great brother had walked the entire way carrying a tripod and telescope. This Rads now set up facing what appeared to be a white cliff in the distance. Upon closer look through the viewfinder we were in fact seeing sea birds nesting on the rocky walls ahead. Fulmars, Gillimots and Razorbills in the thousands, flying around or perched on their nests, and creating a marvellous cacophony of squaws that could be heard for miles around. Such a concentration of life on this one rock wall. And just in time, the skies cleared up and the sun shone down on us. 

Colonsay has a variety of different landscapes and we explored many of them over the next days. On a warm sunny day with blue skies we headed to the beautiful and isolated Balnahard Beach on the Island’s north coast. It was a two hour walk to get there and in the heat we soon took of jumpers and jackets, enjoying the sun on our bare arms, a rare feeling here. Along the way we spotted Mesolithic ruins, remnants of humans who lived here 9000 years ago, which I found quite exciting. Eventually our path took us to the top of a small hill from where opened below us a perfect bay with crystal clear turquoise waters. We walked down, through long grass and wild flowers, to reach the soft sandy shores. Rads and I lost no time taking our shoes of and wading in the cold sea. But the water was too cold for JJ’s dainty feet. We explored the empty beach from end to end, carefree under the sun, looking for mermaids purses and trying to spot Basking sharks. It felt so good enjoying the sun’s warmth and the gentle sea breeze. 

A few hours later on our way home, Rads stopped at the house of a fisherman and bought a dozen oysters. We went to another beach and sat close to some rock pools covered in barnacles, and there using a small pen knife Rads opened the oysters which we shared equally between us. We gulped them down while watching the sun set into the sea. The oysters were delicious, like swallowing the ocean in one go. I felt content and happy, serenely watching the pink and purple colours of the sky reflecting in the rock pools in front of us.

There were a few rainy days that we spent indoors, relaxing and not doing much. On Saturday evening we went again to the Ceilidh at the town hall, dancing the night away to joyful music and laughing whenever we messed up our steps. Here JJ was at a disadvantage as Rads and I had at least been to a Ceilidh before, and it did show. Poor JJ. Another night we dressed up a bit and went for a meal at the island’s only hotel. We also spent an afternoon checking out the fancy Manor of the Laird who owns Colonsay. Yes the whole island is the private property of one man. And if he wants to introduce pheasants on the island to organise shooting parties with his friends, he can do just as he pleases. 

Our last memorable hike was the to island of Oransay. We set off at low tide when the sea recedes enough to be able to walk between the two islands. Rads and I had wisely worn some rubber boots as it was necessary to wade through parts of the beach. Poor JJ preferred not to risk his fancy trainers in the wet sand and opted to go barefooted. Along the way, Rads and I had fun splashing him and getting splashed in return.

The two islands are quite different. Oransay is much smaller and flatter with a high rocky hill to one side called Beinn Oransay There are very few trees and the low vegetation makes for great panoramic views all around. We walked down a long path that curved inland towards the only dwellings on the island: a big house joined to a farm.  This was a RSPB centre and the island was run by them, and it was here that Rads usually lived. Today she had to look after some of the farm animals so we helped her, feeding baby goats and a baby cow we nicknamed Sloberdon, as he took a shining to JJ and slobbered all over him.  

The incredible ruins of an Augustinian priory stand just next to the big house. They date from the 1300s when Oransay was an important religious centre and would remain so for another couple hundred years. All three of us are great history lovers and we had a great time exploring this half forgotten priory, with it’s intact cloister arches and warrior tomb effigies. 

Our trip to Oransay concluded with a hike to the summit of Beinn Oransay, through lots of purple heather, from where we enjoyed 360* views all around the land. We could easily make out the two paps of the neighbouring island of Jura, and the outlines of Islay. The weather was warm and the wind friendly so we sat for a while up there, soaking in the sights and feeling invincible. 

Once again these islands showed me that life is enjoyed most when taking it slow in the company of good friends, surrounded by spectacular nature.  I haven’t been back to Colonsay since, but I have always treasured it as one of the best holidays I ever had. And the sheep in our backyard would agree.